Hearthstone Rogue Legend Rank F2P Deck

Hearthstone Rogue Legend Rank F2P Deck by Im_Concept

Hi everyone! I’m Concept and I made it to legend with a free to play EU account in only 123 games using budget rogue.

Proof

Decklist

Backstab x 2
Cold Blood
Deadly Poison x 2
Argent Squire x 2
Blade Flurry
Eviscerate x 2
Sap
Defias Ringleader x 2
Knife Juggler
Loot Hoarder x 2
Harvest Golem x 2
Shattered Sun Cleric
SI:7 Agent x 2
Chillwind Yeti
Dark Iron Dwarf
Defender of Argus
Assassin’s Blade
Azure Drake x 2
Argent Commander x 2
Sprint

To counter the “Anything is free to play if you play long enough” argument, this deck can be made in almost entirety after simply doing the starter quests and 1 arena run. This is the deck I made after doing the starter quests and an 8 win arena run then using all the gold to buy packs and disenchanting any card I didn’t need. It costs 1080 dust.

General Strategy

The general goal of this deck is to aggressively gain board control and then keeping it by creating board states that your opponent cannot deal with effeciently. Then, like most aggro-midrange decks, when you get to the point where you believe your opponent cannot recover, you push for lethal.

There are a few main things to keep in mind when playing this deck.

• Know what answers your opponent’s deck has.

While this is something that’s very difficult to do without lots of experience, it’s very important. If, for example, your opponent is a druid and has played both swipes, then you can know you are safe to flood the board. An extension of this is knowing whether your opponent would have used answers if he had them. For example, if you have an azure drake, 2 loot hoarders, and a scrub out, and your druid opponent doesn’t swipe, it’s safe to say he doens’t have swipe. You can then safely play farther into swipe, because you will probably only get punished by a topdeck.

• Pay constant attention to how much is needed for lethal.

You’d be surprised how quick you can bring down the opponent’s health. Even if it will take multiple turns, if you have enough to kill your opponent with out of hand damage (Eviscerate, argent commander, deadly poison. Additionally, know what damage you have left in your deck. Generally, if you can put your opponent to low health such as 4 and hope to topdeck an answer, it is a decent play. However if you know that you’ve used both argent commanders and eviscerates, it becomes quite less so.

• Pay attention to combos.

This one is most important vs zoo. Comboing SI 7 Agent and Defias Ringleader is crucial. This is most commonly seen in the example of backstab. While it may seem tempting to backstab the knife juggler turn two, it’s more important to be able to combo your agent on turn 3. Pay attention to the cards in your hand, which you want to combo in upcoming turns, and which you need to use to combo them.

Mulligans

Mulligans are a huge part of the game. Getting the cards you need for certain matchups as well as a strong early curve can make or break games. Because the coin and an extra card have a huge impact, especially in rogue; I will distinguish between going second and first. Please note that the going second mulligans are cards to keep in addition to cards to keep when going first. This is because there is no card that you would mulligan for when going first that you wouldn’t also want when going second.

• General

When going first: Argent Squire, loot hoarder, backstab (but only 1 usually), deadly poison, knife juggler, Scrubs if you have backstab,either SI 7 Agent or harvest golem, not both; generally SI7 is the one to keep over golem, especially if you have backstab. Shattered sun cleric if you have argent squire and a 2 drop.

Going Second: Scrubs always, cold blood if you have an argent squire (except vs shaman), both Si7 and harvest golem (but not 2 of the same one),

• Matchup mulligans.

Warlock first and second: a second backstab. Blade flurry if you have deadly poison.

Hunter first: if your other cards are good, an assassin’s blade is a good keep.

Hunter Second: Assasins blade and sap.

Priest first: if your other cards are decent, yeti.

Priest second: yeti and dark iron

Druid first and second: sap

Warrior first and second: assassin’s blade.

Rogue, Shaman, Mage, Paladin: nothing extra.

Matchups

Knowing how to play each matchup differently is crucial, because each matchup is in a way it’s own version of the game.

• Zoo (Heavily Favorable Matchup)

This matchup is all about how fast the rogue can take board control from the warlock. Focus all of your efforts into putting minions on the board and taking away your opponents. If you have to cold blood your opponents knife juggler just to combo agent into it, so be it. If you have to non combo eviscerate on turn 2 just to kill your opponents flame imp, so be it. If you can take control of the board and keep yourself alive your opponent will slowly kill themselves by tapping.

• Druid (Slightly unfavorable matchup)

Believe it or not, you don’t have to play super aggressively to win this matchup. The best way is to force them to use up their answers, like getting them to burn a swipe on a loot hoarder and a scrub (not uncommon), and then put down minions that they can not deal with. Even if it seems like you are way behind, something as simple as a cold blooded argend commander hitting them twice can swing the game. Sprint is also extremely key a lot of the time.

• Warrior (Slightly favorable matchup)

There are two ways to win this matchup; Assasin’s blade and them running out of board clears. Try not to use poison except on assasin’s blade, and don’t extend too far into clears, unless you are pretty sure your opponent has them, at which point flood the board as much as possible. Sprint can also help win you games when you are behind.

• Hunter (Slightly favorable vs midrange, heavily unfavorable vs aggresive)

Both aggro and midrange are a race. You neeed them to kill them before they kill you. Don’t be afraid to kill their minions with your face if it means keeping good minions alive, but trade unimportant minions to mitigate unleash. If you don’t think there is a way you can win if they have unleash, just heavily overextend into the possibility. It’s better to have a 50/50 that your get crushed than a gurantee losing in a sort of close game.

• Priest (Very very favorable matchup)

Play yeti, dark iron, azure drakes, and argent commanders. Profit.

• Rogue (Even matchup)

Versus another tempo rogue, it’s basically a fight for board control. Additionally, try to deal with your opponent’s cards as efficiently as possible. These games are decided by consistently getting slightly better trades and value than your opponent. Versus a miracle rogue it’s a race. Rogue has a tough time with dealing with midrange cards like azure drake, yeti, and argent commander. Use that to your advantage.

• Paladin (Slightly favorable), Shaman (Favorable), and Mage (Slightly unfavorable)

All of these matchups are very straightforward. Don’t overextend into their respective AOEs, try to deal with their creatures as effeciently as possible, and push for lethal when you think you can finish them off. Note when deciding whether to go for face that shamans have no heals, mages have few or no heals, and paladins have many heals. Also, fuck water elementals.

Summary

All in all, this is a very fun, cheap and effective deck that I used to get to legend in 123 games. I would love to hear questions and comments, and hope that you try it out and have great success.