Gunbound Aduka Guide
Gunbound Aduka Guide by Creedo
Aduka used to be the crappiest bot by far in the entire game, and was only
considered a threat if four of them ganged up on your team in a 4v4 game.
Many players used (and still use) Aduka as a money and GP whore by starting
an Aduka-only room so that the combined power of 8 Adukas makes for massive
damage from easy shots. Since one of the major updates less than a month ago,
Aduka is now a usable, legit mobile. It is no longer a sure sign of a noob if
someone chooses Aduka, and I’d try it over the popular noob bots like bigfoot,
JD, or grub. In packs, Aduka is too strong now. I would even go as far as to
say broken or unfair. If the enemy team is 4 Adukas and the game is score, then
your team MUST pick Adukas also to keep the game fair. Otherwise, about halfway
through the match the enemy Adukas will be doing more damage than anyone on your
team, and by the end of the match it’ll be something like 50% more. With that
kind of damage advantage, how can it be called an even match? To be fair, I
should mention that the game designers increased the amount of damage needed to
bring Thor up to higher levels after upgrading Aduka, so it’s not all bad.
Anyway, enough editorial, on to the facts.
Shot 1: A typical shot 1 that closely resembles JD/Cake’s. It’s an electrical
type shot and if it hits it will do some damage for the direct hit and then
some additional damage for the electrical ‘splash’. The splash effect is
large, so if Aduka misses completely the splash can still hit and even kill you.
It also transfers from bot to bot, e.g: if Aduka shoots me and you’re right
next to me, and BOB is next to you…I will eat the normal damage, you will eat
the splash damage only (about 70 points of damage), and then BOB will get
some splash damage from you (much less, 15-30 points of damage). In close
quarters maps like the cave, it’s not unusual for a shot 1’s splash effect to
ripple down a line of metal bots and hit almost everyone in the game.
It makes an unremarkable small hole if it misses.
Typical damage: 160
Shot 2: This is Aduka’s bread and butter, and a very interesting weapon. In
old versions, the current shot is was actually Aduka’s SS attack. So you know
it’s probably pretty neat. The basic idea behind this weapon is: The more
you use it, the stronger it gets. More specifically, this weapon attacks with
Thor. Thor is the big laser cannon that floats high up in the sky on every
map. When the Thor weather effect is on, every shot in the game is followed
instantly by a hit from Thor’s giant laser. This adds damage to the original
shot… not a ton of damage, usually 50-100 points at first. That’s why when
Thor is out, everyone fires duals so they can get more than one Thor hit.
Ok, so what’s all that got to do with Aduka? Well, Aduka’s shot 2 fires
a 3-pack of ghostly Aduka images. Whenever those images hit something (an
enemy, a friend, or just dirt) then Thor will lash out with a laser strike.
This happens even when the Thor weather effect is not active.
Each of the 3 images causes 1 Thor strike, so this attack = 3 hits from Thor.
If you’ve played a while, you will have noticed by now that every time Thor
strikes something, it gains “EXP”… like the ‘experience’ rating in
roleplaying games. When Thor gains enough experience, it jumps up a level and
becomes stronger. From that point on, Thor strikes will do more damage.
Thor can keep gaining levels up until level 7, but you need to do more and
more Thor-inflicted damage to level up, i.e. levelling to level 1 is fast
and easy, but it’ll take twice as long to go to 2, and even longer to go to
level 3, etc. Since Aduka’s shot 2 is entirely Thor damage, with no base damage
of its own, you will do crappy damage to start with (about 150). Then as
Thor jumps to level 2 it will be a respectable 180 or so… nothing scary but
enough to make a difference. At level 3, your shot 2 will do 220-250 damage.
That’s right up there with power hitters like boomer, armor, sate, etc.
Beyond level 3 and you’re doing more damage with your shot 2 than anyone else
can… but it takes a while for Thor to reach that kind of strength.
Typical damage: min- 150 max- 370 (?). Depends on Thor level.
SS: Completely changed since the last major update… this is quite similar
to Nak’s SS shot in that it will travel through land as if the land didn’t
even exist. Unlike Nak’s shot, it doesn’t stop and explode when it hits
something solid… it just keeps on going. So basically this shot travels
through anything and completely ignores whatever is in the way. When the shot
successfully passes through an enemy’s body, Thor will fire a heavy hitting
laser attack at that enemy (I think even at a low level it’s like 200-250 damage
for a single strike, which is much more powerful than a normal hit).
If the shot passes through a teammate’s body, I think it doesn’t do any
damage. So this is a very user friendly SS, just aim directly at the target
and shotgun with max power and you’ll hit them (probably).
The real strength of this SS is that it can hit multiple targets. If 2 or more
enemies are lined up just right, you can fire the SS so that it blazes through
both of them. They’ll both get hit for the usual SS damage, so a double
hit would mean you did 400-500 damage in one turn. That’s very good for any
mobile. If you can hit 3 or (omfg-so-pro-lah) FOUR enemies, you can
come close to doing 1,000 damage in a single turn. Dude… ouch.
Please note also that hurricanes/tornados can allow the SS to hit an enemy
twice if they’re near the center of the ‘nado.
Typical damage: min- 250 max- 470 (? total guess?). Depends on Thor level.
A quick note on damage, delay, etc:
Damage is based on how clean your hit is, and whether or not your shot was
partially blocked by dirt. Aduka’s shots are very user friendly and tend to
give full damage if you hit any part of the mobile.
Delay is fixed, and for every second you take to shoot, the delay for your shot
will have 10 points added. Certain items also add to your delay. For example a
normal SS fired with no delay is 1310 ‘time units’. If you used 3 seconds to
fire the shot, you are now using 1310+30 time units, so that’s 1340 time units.
If you use a dual+ item with Aduka’s shot 1, you are adding 250 delay to your
natural delay of 760. Dual+ is therefore 1,010 delay as long as you use shot 1
first. That means dual+ delay is only 100 more than using a normal shot 2.
Always use shot 1 first to get the benefit of the delay.
Other strengths and weaknesses:
-Good damage late in the game, esp. score games and on maps with lots of Thor.
-Fairly large (all true) angle and good climbing. Getting angle is easy.
-Your shot is pretty user friendly, since it’s a tracer you can sometimes
overshoot enemies on hills and still get a hit, and if you land in front the
shot gradually drills its way closer and closer to the target. You can
also hide under ledges and hit enemies above you. Shot 1 also allows some
slop since it has splash damage like JD’s.
-You get stronger when others (friends or enemies) use Aduka. 4 Adukas is nasty.
-Flexible and not too difficult to use, all shots hit directly.
-Everyone underestimates you.
-Low damage at the start of the game, forced to use high delay shot 2 to
build Thor even though the damage is poor initially.
-In solo and tag games you can die before your shot has a chance to build up.
-Lousy in 1v1 games for the same reason.
-Short movement range.
-No added damage from force or Thor (since you’re already using Thor to attack).
Your only useful weather effect is lightning.
-Everyone either yells at you for picking a noob bot or hates you for
using it if you’re part of a pack of Adukas.
-I’ve heard that Aduka cannot get attack power boosted by avatar if you play
in avatar on zones. I need to test it still.
HOW TO AIM
Aduka can aim within 1 screen using a fixed power system. This system has
been quite useful for me, and I recommend it to everyone. If you don’t like
shooting with formulas, you don’t need to… just use feel instead. However
if you ever miss inside 1 screen and 0 wind, you should know that a formula
shot would have been a guaranteed hit.
Fixed power formula:
Using this means simply shooting with the same amount of power every time:
2.35 bars. There are 4 bars to a full power meter, so 2.35 bars is a bit over
half of your entire power meter.
To aim your shot, you simply choose different angles to hit different
locations on the screen. You do not use just 1 angle over and over again, you’re
usually going to be changing the angle every single shot. That might sound
weird, but remember your level of power never changes, so it’s very very easy.
Adjusting for a miss when you are using different amounts of power can be
tricky… but adjusting for the same miss using a formula is much easier and
The three basic rules you can memorize to get you started:
1. Power is 2.35 bars. You actually do need to change it a TINY bit depending
on how far away you shoot, for example up close 2.3 bars is maybe better.
Basically, use 2.3 bars but for very close shots use a tiny bit less to be safe.
Also, for 1 full screen I use a tiny bit more power, like 2.4 bars.
2. Angle 60 hits 1 screen away.
3. Angle 75 hits half a screen away.
Measuring with the screen: hold right click and drag the screen so that you’re
at the edge. Then judge what angle you want to use (it’s easiest to use angle 75
as a landmark, then judge how far away the enemy is from 75. If the enemy is
nearly 1 screen away, use 1 screen = angle 60 as a landmark).
-The distance from your ‘all/team’ button to your half power mark = angle 80
If you cannot put the all button under you because the enemy is far to the
right, put the 3rd power mark under you. From the third power mark to the right
edge of the screen is also about angle 80. This is exactly 1/3 screen distance.
-From the all/team button to (in score) the area between the first ‘team lives
remaining’ button and the red number showing how many lives remain = angle 70
explanation: In score it has two buttons bottom right, “b life remaining” and
“a life remaining”. To the right of these buttons are red numbers showing how
many lives you have left. Just between the first button and number of lives
is the angle 70 mark. In solo or tag, it’s from the all button to the left
edge of the yellow stripey area next to the “F7” button.
This is exactly 2/3 screen distance.
-left edge of screen to right edge of screen = angle 60
-left edge of screen to middle of screen = angle 75 … to spot a perfect 75,
put yourself at the left edge of the screen so that u are halfway off the
screen. Look directly under the middle of the wind indicator at the top
of the screen… that is where an angle 75 shot will land in 0 wind.
-each ‘bar’ on your power meter is ~4 angles. So let’s say you place yourself
above the “all” button. The enemy is 1 bar past your half power (2 bar) mark.
All to half power = angle 80
1 bar beyond = lower 4 angles
so enemy is at angle 76… almost half a screen away.
-You can’t use angles lower than 60… the shot only has enough power to travel
1 screen. In fact, trying to fire angle 60 with 2.3 bars might land a little
bit short, and you may want to try 2.35 bars for angle 60 shots. If you ever do
a calculation that tells you to lose an angle lower than 60, your shot will
miss and come up short.
ADJUSTING FOR WIND:
From my experience, adjusting for wind with any bot at any fixed power is nearly
the same. Using the adjustments for armor or turtle’s 2.4 method can work with
Aduka’s 2.35 bar shots.
Wind adjustment works like this:
-Figure out the angle you need in 0 wind.
-If wind is up or towards the opponent or both, raise angle to compensate. If
wind is against you or down, lower the angle to compensate. Remember that if you
are using a maximum power of 2.3 bars, you cannot reach certain distances when
wind is against you… for example if you try to hit someone at angle 70 with 20
wind against you, you will fall short always. So in moderate or strong wind
blowing against you, I recommend you abandon using the 2.3 bar formula. It’s
still ok when wind is blowing towards the enemy.
-Now that you’ve decided to lower or raise your angle, the only question is
“how much”. That can be determined by looking at the wind’s strength
and dividing it by a certain number. The result will be how many angles
you should raise or lower your angle to hit the target.
The number to divide by is based on what direction the wind is pointing.
Here’s a chart showing what number to divide by for almost any given wind
Enemy is half screen away, wind is 14 directly against you.
Since angle 75, 2.3 bars hits half a screen away… you start at angle 75.
You then use the formula on the windchart to decide that 14 wind requires
adjusting by 8 angles. Therefore you lower from 75 to 67.
angle 67, 2.3 bars will hit half a screen away in this wind.
Enemy is 2/3 of a screen away, wind is diagonally up/towards the enemy.
Wind strength is 16. In 0 wind, you can hit 2/3rds of a screen away using
the 2.3 bar system… the correct angle for that distance is normally 70.
In this wind, using the wind chart we do the following math:
-16 wind/2 is 8. Raise your angle 8, from 70 to 78
-take the result, 8, and divide by 2 again. 8/2 = 4. Raise 4 more angles.
You go from 78 to 82.
-The last step of the formula on the windchart is to lower 1 angle. 78 –> 77.
So your final answer to use angle 77, 2.3 bars of power.
Enemy is 1 screen away, wind is 4 against.
Normally, a 1 screen shot is angle 60, 2.3 bars. If you try to use the
windchart formula and use angle 58, 2.3 bars… then your shot will miss.
That’s because the formula is only good for angle 60 or higher, which I
mentioned earlier. You will be forced to use more power if you want to hit
1 screen away with the wind fighting your shot, 2.3 bars just isn’t enough.
One more tip: You might find it easier to add power to your shot if the wind
is straight down, and decrease power if wind is straight up. That’s because
trying to adjust using strictly angle changes is flaky in up/down wind. For
example if the wind is 20 down and you need to shoot an enemy pretty close
to you, you usually only need to lower 1 angle, but further away you might
need to lower 3 or even 4. If you just increase your power until the angle
you’d use in 0 wind hits them, then you don’t need to guess your angle
anymore… just aim all future shots like you would in zero wind, and
use the increased power level you came up from a successful shot.
The same applies to up wind. If wind is also left or right though, you should
get used to adjusting angle.
Other aiming methods:
High angle method:
Shoot with full power for (nearly) every shot. You change angle to hit
different parts of the screen. This is easy to do because the amount of power
you have to use is impossible to screw up. The problem is that at full power,
your screen is only divided into about 9 parts… 90 full hits you, 81 full
hits 1 screen away. If you use 2.3 bars, there’s almost no room between 2
different angles. But if you use full power, the enemy can ‘hide’ between 2
angles… i.e. someone who is just a little bit closer than 1 screen away cannot
be hit with angle 81 (too far) and cannot be hit with angle 82 (too short).
So if you use full power high angle shots, be prepared for situations where you
may need to adjust power occasionally, i.e. in the example I just gave the
correct shot is angle 81 ‘unfull’… about 3.8 bars of power.
1/3 screen: 87 full
1/2 screen: 85 ‘unfull’
2/3 screen: 84 full
1.0 screen: 81 full
3 bar formula:
This involves shooting with nearly 3 bars of power to aim your shots.
You actually use variable levels of power to aim, which might take some
practice. Once you master it, it’s quite accurate.
The advantage to using this is that with so much power, you can make
calculated shots up to 1.5 screens away. The disadvantage is that 3 bar shots,
like full power shots, have a lot of distance between angles and you may need
to adjust your power level to hit an enemy sitting between 2 different angles.
You will also need to watch wind carefully because the shot is spending a lot
of time in the air, and the wind effect will be greater than you might expect.
Inside half a screen: 2.55 bars (so just a few pixels over 2 and a half bars).
Over half screen, but under 1 full screen: 2.75 bars (2 and 3/4 of a bar)
Beyond 1 screen: 2.85 bars (about 2 and 5/6 bars of power).
1/2 screen = angle 80
1 screen = angle 70
1.5 screens = angle 60
3 bar shots are suitable for:
*Enemies beyond 1 screen distance, but not as far as 2 screens away.
*Situations where the wind force holds your shot back and makes it impossible
to get the shot to travel 1 screen distance using just 2.3 bars power.
*Situations where you want to stay as close to the front of a slope as possible
(and therefore don’t want to move backwards to get a lower true angle). If
you’re in a situation where you’re forced to use a very high angle and you
need a lower angle for the 2.3 method, you can use 3 bars instead and keep your
3 bar shots are NOT suitable for:
*Close range shots inside half a screen.
*Any situation where 2.3 bars could easily hit (3 bars has a greater
chance of missing because the gap between 2 angles is larger).
*Shots beyond 1.5 screen (a flat angle or full power high angles are needed).
As with the 2.3 aim method, you are dividing your target area into 30 parts…
10 parts per half screen. That means 5 parts per 1/4 screen. If it helps, 7
angles distance using the 2.3 method is about 5 angles using the 3.1 bar method.
Enemy is 1/4 screen away.
Since this is less than 1/2 screen, we decide to use 2.55 bars of power.
I said earlier that it’s 5 angles per every 1/4th screen, and the enemy is 1/4
screen away.. so if 90 would hit myself, 85 would hit 1/4 screen away from me.
Solution: Angle 85, 2.55 bars power.
Enemy is 1.5 screen away.
Beyond 1 screen requires 2.85 bars of power. 1.5 screens is angle 60.
Solution: Angle 60, 2.85 bars.
Enemy is a bit more than 3/4ths of a screen away.
We’re shooting between 1/2 and 1 full screen, so that’s 2.75 bars of power.
I know that 1/2 screen is 80, and 1 screen is 70.
3/4ths if a screen is right in between those two points. That means angle
75 is 3/4 screen. But because the enemy is a little past 3/4ths of a screen, I
will use angle 74 instead.
Solution: Angle 74, 2.75 bars.
ADJUSTING FOR WIND:
If you’re already used to the 2.3 bar wind adjustment chart, then using the
same chart with the 3 bar formula is usually pretty accurate. However
a more accurate set of charts can be found here:
Notice that when the wind is blowing against, you’ll find you should not
try shooting beyond 1 screen using this method. Especially if your calculation
tells you to use an angle lower than 60.
ANOTHER aiming method using a fixed angle:
This method is not a lot different from using ‘feel’ to aim.
You stick to the same angle all the time, and if you get good enough with it
you will get a good feel how how much power to use in any given situation.
These landmarks show how to hit various spots in 0 wind using the same angle.
(credit to KNAT guild and 0o0o0o0 for reposting):
Fixed angle 60 shooting
1/4 screen – 1.1 bars
1/2 screen – 1.6 bars
3/4 screen – 2.1 bars
1.0 screen – 2.35 bars (you will recognize this 1 scr shot from the 2.3 section)
Fixed angle 70 shooting
1/4 screen – 1.35 bars
1/2 screen – 2.0 bars
3/4 screen – 2.45 bars
1.0 screen – 2.85 bars (you will recognize this shot from the 3 bar section)
Fixed angle 80 shooting
1/4 screen – 1.95 bars
1/2 screen – 2.7 bars
3/4 screen – 3.3 bars
1.0 screen – 3.9 bars
BJSL method: This is sort of interesting and might be the best blend of
formula and feel. Basically, you learn the power levels needed to hit different
parts of the screen using a fixed angle… for example, angle 60. Then you
adjust your angle to compensate for wind. For example, let’s say you already
know that at angle 70, 2.0 bars hits 1/2 screen distance. The enemy you want
to hit is a little over half a screen away, so you decide ahead of time to
use 2.1 bars of power. Now you have the power, but what if there’s wind?
You can’t use that power if the wind is 6 against you, the shot will fall short.
Therefore you adjust for wind also using the windchart mentioned in the earlier
sections. So you decide to shoot with 2.1 bars and angle 67.
You will be trying to shoot with the power level you’d use in 0 wind… only
you’re going to adjust for wind also. If you can use feel to make a 2/3
screen shot in 0 wind, and you have the formula needed to adjust your angle
in 10 wind, then in theory you can make the angle adjustment first… then
pretend you’re shooting in a 0 wind situation, ignore the wind marker on your
screen and just use your usual ‘feeling’ to hit that enemy.
One last method: Feel –
I suck at using just feel, and it’s nothing I can teach you. I do have a tip:
Aduka does quite well with flat angles. That’s because when you fire your 3
tracers with shot 2, the first tracer destroys land on the way towards the
enemy, then the 2nd tracer travels past that point. It too will destroy some
land, and by the time the third tracer hits something, you hopefully are
landing the shot near or on your enemy. You don’t need to shotgun your
shot 2, but if you ever CAN you definitely should. Thor hardly moves the
enemy when it hits them so shotgunning with duals is safe even if the enemy
is floating on a pixel (they won’t fall and cause your 2nd shot to miss).
ADUKA STRATEGY –
If the enemy is close enough to hit by feeling easily, just do that. There’s
no need to waste time getting a special angle and calculating a formula for an
enemy who is 1/4th of a screen away. Just hit them.
If the enemy is far enough away that you’re not 100 percent sure you can hit
them with just feeling, then look to see if you can get on a downward slope
and shotgun them. Shot 2 shotguns very well because it won’t move the enemy
around much and you have a lot of room for slop when you use low, flat angles
If a shotgun slope isn’t available and you still don’t trust feeling, you can
start using the 2.3 bar formula (assuming there’s a slope for you to stand on).
What if the enemy is more than 1 screen away or the wind is too strong to use
2.3 bars? You can switch to the 3 bar formula or full power high angle shots.
While 3 bar is more accurate, I think full power shots are easier to do, and
there aren’t special power levels to memorize like you would with 3 bar. So
I recommend switching to full power high angle shots here.
Depending on where Thor or the enemy is, you can sometimes miss and still
get lucky by overshooting the enemy if they are on a hill. The tracer lands
behind them and lower than them, and what happens is thor’s laser will pass
through their body when it shoots at your tracer. In other words, they are
in the line of fire between thor and aduka’s tracer location. If you are
using a formula to aim and are unsure which angle to choose, choose the
angle that causes your shot to land a little bit past their body if they
are on the front slope of a tall hill.
Who to attack/what weapon to use:
Basic strategy: Pound away at the easiest target with shot 2. Use a dual shot 2
if either you or them is about to die. Use your SS when an opportunity to
hit 2 or more enemies opens up, or if a hurricane will let you hit the same
Advanced: Learn to use fixed power shooting so that you can hit anything on the
screen with confidence. When you can do that, you can choose targets based on
which enemy it would be best to kill, not on which enemy is easiest to hit.
I tend to go for the enemy that at least 2 other teammates can easily gangbang/
Aduka usually cannot steal extra turns on the enemy because it’s important to
use your high-delay shot 2 every chance you get.
Therefore you may want to make use of items like dual+ to help you survive
a 1 on 1 matchup (even if the game has 6 or 8 players, at the start it’s
usually a bunch of 1v1 matchups that turn into double teaming opportunities
as the enemy weakens). Dual+ gives you the important shot 2 you need to
build Thor, but also adds the strength of shot 1… your delay for dual+ is
pretty good, so you can inflict 300 damage or a bit more and you don’t get a
big delay penalty like you would for dual. So dual+ rocks for Aduka.
Also, if you find you can aim at almost anything pretty easily… why not
aim for the enemy you can hurt the most? Aduka is a laser type creature so
he inflicts the most damage to organic enemies and the least damage to shielded
types. Therefore if I have to pick between pounding away at a boomer or
pounding away at a.sate …I’ll attack the boomer, because my shot 2 does more
damage to it. The more damage I do with shot 2, the more EXP Thor gains, and
the faster Thor can level up.
If you treat your matchup with a certain enemy as a 1v1, then
you have to watch your delay carefully to beat a strong player who has an easy
shot on you. Here’s how you should play most matchups:
You go first –
1. If you play delay and use shot 1, you don’t build Thor at all and you
also do crappy damage. If dual+ is available I would dual here. If not,
don’t dual… open with just shot 1.
2. From here on out fire shot 2, and any time the enemy has more than +250
delay or so (i.e. you’re going before them and you see 250, 260, or a higher
number by their name on the turns list at the bottom left) then use dual+.
Remember to always use shot 1 first with dual+ to get the best delay.
They go first –
1. If they opened with a dual and took a very very long time lining up their
shot and aiming, you can dual back quickly and beat their delay.
Vs someone with naturally low delay like boomer, this is hard. Vs armor or nak,
it’s much easier.
2. If they opened with a fast dual, respond with a dual+ (shot 1 first) and you
can beat their delay and get another turn. If there is no dual+, just shot 2.
3. If they opened up with an SS or dual+, fire shot 2 first to beat their delay,
then use a dual+ if it’s available as your next shot. You should be able to get
three hits on them without losing too much delay to them.
4. If they opened with a shot 2, respond with a dual shot 2. Your delay
will be decent compared to theirs afterwards, and they won’t get 2 turns in a
row on you in this situation.
5. If they opened with a shot 1, respond with a dual, or to be conservative
a dual+. For the same reasons as listed above, they probably won’t get 2 turns
in a row on you.
Different strategies for different modes:
SOLO MODE: Remember that once you die, that’s it… no more shots for you. You
want to contribute as much useful damage as possible before you die. You also
have to be aware of the fact that pro solo players look for opportunities to
doubleteam/gangbang/rape someone. If that someone is probably going to be you,
you should dual on your first shot and don’t worry about the huge delay (because
you’re going to die anyway, and firing a dinky shot 1 before you die sucks).
Remember, this is only a solo strategy, generally firing a dual your first turn
is a bad idea. The delay from that is so high many players can dual you back
and beat your delay, or else get three shots in a row by using fast shot 1’s.
SCORE: If you can see you’re going to get gangbanged (as in solo mode) you
should consider dualling your first turn so you do something good before you
die. If you are pretty sure you will be left alone or only 1 enemy will try
to kill you, then play delay and treat the matchup as a 1v1 between you and
your target. Remember, help is available if your teammates are pro enough.
If you need just 1 added hit to be able to kill your enemy, don’t be afraid
to use teamtalk and ask for their help. Otherwise, if you have things under
control you shouldn’t ask. Also, if you are really owning your enemy and
have a large lead in life on them, you might look for situations where you
can help your teammates (or else ask them if they want help). Also…
sometimes in a score game, suicide is preferable to letting the enemy get the
kill because by suiciding you can choose a drop location right away and respawn
faster. If you’re definitely going to die in the next turn or two,
then suiciding isn’t a bad plan. Don’t do it automatically every time though.
Sometimes it’s more helpful to force the enemy to use up a turn finishing you
off, which takes some heat off of your teammates.
One other cute score trick: On maps with thin land, fire a shot 2 at the highest
angle you can wherever the enemy is about to drop. They’ll drop into the pit
you made and it will be difficult for them to shoot out of it.
TAG: Just remember to F7 when your life gets low, around 40% or so.
Other Aduka stuff:
-If the owner of a room tolerates it, encourage others to use Aduka. Having
1 Aduka teammate means Thor will build twice as quickly. Having more makes
your team quite hard to beat if they can all shoot well.
-Remember that you’re shooting from Thor. Be careful of situations where
something is in the line of fire between Thor and the intended target.
That ‘something’ can be a piece of dirt, an enemy’s corpse, a teammate.. and
even you. An example of how to really embarrass yourself if you forget this:
_______ X ““““_________Y “““`
Draw a line mentally from Thor to the enemy “Y”. You can see that you’re
sitting on that line. Therefore “X” (you) will take all of the damage from
Thor and block the shot from hitting the enemy. Boy does that feel dumb.
-Watch for enemies who use the landscape to block Thor. For example if the
enemy digs his way underground into a small tunnel, and there’s lots of land
between them and Thor, you cannot hit with shot 2. You can try to slowly
drill your way to them with shot 2, even though it’s wasting turns… or you
can just switch to shot 1. Better yet, ignore that enemy and go with shot 2
against someone else.
-When you miss a shot using the 2.35 bar fixed power method, use your power
meter to guide how many angles to change… 1 bar on your power meter is ~4
angles, so it is easy to judge.
-Even though the effect is small, if the wind is 1 different from your
last turn it can alter your shot. For example, the wind goes from 15 -> 16:
You may need to use a tiny bit more or less power or just adjust your angle.
Also, when the enemy gets hit they tend to sink down a bit, and you
may need to raise your angle or lower your power to adjust for that.
-Don’t get fooled into thinking you need to adjust power/angle when you switch
to a different shot. Shot 1, Shot 2, and the SS all have the same weight.
-If you only remember 1 thing, please remember that if you want to get a sure
shot on someone and can shotgun them… do it. Ignore anyone who tries to
convince you that this is too easy or noobie. Why would you make a shot
more difficult than it has to be? Show off your formulas and high angle shots
when you need to, and when you don’t need to just stick to the sure shots.
-When Thor is out, shot 1 gets a bonus from the Thor strike while shot 2 does
not. Therefore you may want to use a dual shot 1 when Thor is available.
Also remember that shot 2 doesn’t get any help from the force effect, so don’t
just mindlessly cut loose with a dual just because you see the pretty beam.
-Follow general gunbound strategy and play smart. Don’t high angle when
using feeling or 2.3 fixed power is enough. Don’t use an item to kill the
enemy if just shot 2 is enough… unless of course you’re going to
die anyway after your next shot. Most importantly, don’t toss out a dual when
you’re not very sure on the hit. Also, don’t aim for enemies who are very
close to teammates. Don’t use a fancy shot when a shotgun will do.
You get the picture.
If you want to really piss people off, you can ignore all these rules in 1
shot: Use a fancy high angle dual shot 2 to try to kill a nearly dead enemy
who is sitting close to your teammate. Then your miss can kill your teammate.
Then you can get kicked the next game after you lose this one. YAY!
-Packing items: I use two duals and a dual+. Teleport used to be important to
me, but I find the better I get the less I need to use it. If you want to keep
a teleport in your pack, use dual, dual+, teleport. Dual+ is too good not to
use, and dual is important for finishing off enemies with more than 300ish hp.
In rare serious games like 1v1 and 2v2 solo, sometimes you will see the tricky
items like wind change enabled. Pack a wind change and/or a teleport for these
kind of games, because making the enemy miss is sometimes the only possible
way to win. For most ‘just for fun’ team games, these items aren’t available
and you won’t need them anyway.
-Practicing: The perfect practice settings are 1v1, jewel mode, death 40,
SSdeath, solo/score, no items except maybe wind change. You have multiple
targets to aim at in jewel mode and that makes it great for practicing the 2.35
shooting method. Metamine is a good map for practice because it’s large enough
and has frequent wind changes so you can learn how to adjust for various wind
changes. It also is easy to get angle on that map. Miramo town is also good
because it’s a large map and you can practice 3.1 bar shots or high angles.
Ok, that’s it, I hope this is helpful.